Kyushu Olle, To Munakata Oshima Island: A trip to the sea and mountains to experience a special world heritage site even before your walk.

Take a ferry from Konominato port. It costs 570 yen to Oshima one way (290 yen for children)

The Munakata Oshima course is very different from other areas because of the access to reach the site. Taking less than 30 minutes by the ferry, you’ll glide across the water as you are splashed and rocked by the waves on the observation deck. 

Just leaving the port is becoming more like a trip.

The sunlight spilling through the clouds feels divine.

By the time I get to Oshima, I’m already looking back, thinking “This is going to be a good trip.” Thanks to the ferry, I felt like I have traveled, even though I haven’t walked yet.

When I get off at the terminal, Mt. Mitake, which towers over Oshima, welcomes me. This is the real start. 

You can see the torii (gate of the shrine) in front of the mountain. Behind it is Nakatsu-gu, Muanakata Taisha Shrine.

After fortifying myself with food, I finally start walking. You can reach Nakatsu-gu Muanakata Taisha Shrine in five minutes by following the ribbon to the landmark. This enshrined Deity (The God of Ritual) is Tagitsuhime, one of the three daughter goddesses of Amaterasu Omikami. Muanakata Taisha Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan, consisting of three shrines, Okitsu-gu, Nakatsu-gu and Hetsu-gu. Give a bow in front of the torii gate and step into the historic sanctuary.

Markers are written on the ground or stones as well as on the ribbon.

At first, it was a beach, so there were not hills, and I arrived at Nakatsu-gu in no time.

There was a marker for the “Milky Way” for the stream flowing through the precincts. In fact, Nakatsu-gu is said to be the birthplace of the Tanabata legend of the annual reunion of two lovers meeting at the Milky Way. Oshima is close to China and considering that Chinese culture was coming in across the sea, it is no wonder that it originated from there.

The Kengyu shrine is on the other side of Milky Way, next to Nakatsu-gu.

It is a World Heritage Site and also is the oldest shrine. It is not common for the legends of the Orihime (Vega, the weaver girl) and Hikoboshi (Altair, the cowherd) to be preserved. Even without such information, it was a very pleasant space.
 

I was halfway up the stone steps to the main shrine when I looked back.

The sea was shining like a path of light — a divine beauty was there in the casual scenery.

Pray at the main shrine located at the top of the stone steps. The shrine is said to bring good luck in marriage in accordance with the Tanabata legend.

 

After paying your respects, walk down the hill at the far left and you will arrive at the spring water “Amano  Manai”. This sacred water, which is said to have longevity benefits, is soft to the palate.

Go around the back of Nakatsu-gu precincts and aim for Mt. Mitake, the highest peak of Oshima. The mountain road leading from here to the summit is the most difficult part of the course. The footsteps are a pleasant mountain trail that many people have stepped on.

If you’re not enjoying the scenery, it is a sign that your pace may be too fast. There is still a long way to go. Take your time to catch your breath, feel the beauty of the greenery, and take a slow pace.

Follow the sign that says “Route” and go around behind Nakatsu-gu precincts.
 

After climbing the altitude difference of 200m from the coast, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view.
The pleasant seascape from the top of the mountain will bring a smile to your face.
It was a fine day, so I could see the sacred island of Okinoshima from the observatory. “Okinoshima” is best seen when the air is clear after the rain, and it may be foggy depending on the weather. I was delighted to have been given good luck, and I put my hands together at Mitake Shrine.

The Mitake Shrine at the top of the mountain is the Okumiya of Mitake shrine. It was surrounded by a mysterious atmosphere.

As we proceed to the building in the back…

Behind the promenade that stretches out into the grasslands is the tall windmill observation tower. The contrast between the reddish roof, blue sky, and the sea is beautiful, making you feel as if you have wandered into some other country. The scenery is picturesque no matter where you take your picture.

Around the Windmill Observatory, rape blossoms in spring, sunflowers in summer, and cosmos in autumn will entertain people.

Near the windmill is also the remains of a battery built in 1936. The part where the cannon was equipped was one step lower than the surroundings. After World War II, it was no longer used, and only the concrete foundation remains, which is still open.

The observation post beside the ruins of the gun emplacement also shows what it looked like in those days. It is characterized by the observation windows that were set up to measure the distance and speed of enemy ships. It is very long horizontally, and the sea seen from there emphasizes the horizon line, giving it a strange appearance.

The Genkai Sea from the observatory also had a special beauty.
 

After enjoying the magnificent view, head to the highlight of Okitsu-gu Yohaisho. It is a place set up to worship Okinoshima, where landing on the island is prohibited. “Sacred Island” means that the island itself is the object of gods and worship and is strictly protected.

While most shrines have a main shrine in front of them after climbing stone steps, here at the Okitsu-gu Yohaisho, the main shrine stands horizontally facing the direction of Okinoshima Island. 

I was staring off into Okinoshima over the horizon. People long ago would have seen it the same way and thought about Okinoshima and prayed. It’s strange that you can still do the same thing and feel the same.

Finally, I turn back for the ferry boarding time.

Be sure to return in time to catch the ferry. If you are in a hurry, you can take a shortcut by walking to the south instead of turning right from the parking lot of the Okitsu-gu Yohaisho. You can also return to the harbor faster if you go straight at the crossroads past the Oshima Community Center.

If you have time to spare, you can go out to the southern shoreline and enjoy the sea breeze. Yume no Sayoshima, with its vermilion torii gate, can be visited on foot at low tide. Likewise, the Ebb Island, which can only be crossed when the tide is low, was like Mont Saint-Michel, a World Heritage site. The natural and beautiful scenery of Oshima continues until the end of the tour.

You can climb the Yume no Sayoshima and worship the shrine.

If you are careless on the way back from the Okitsu-gu Yohaisho, you may miss a landmark and unknowingly take a shortcut. If you want to walk the Olle course all the way to the end, please be careful. I am ashamed to admit that I was so busy talking that I walked right past it. The same is true in other places, but when you find a landmark, be sure to confirm it by pointing to it or saying it out loud. If you accidentally go the wrong way, you may have to go back a considerable distance.

Worship in the Kansu as well. It was a walking trip to put hands together with God until the end.

Walk from sea level to the highest mountain, Mt. Mitake, and traverse the island from north to south. It was a trip full of history and nature, visiting places of worship that have been carefully protected since ancient times.  We were sure to have enjoyed the trip to the fullest, but when the ferry left the harbor, we felt a little sad. It was the same boat as the one that took us there, but I felt the complete opposite. We left the island with our hair pulled back, thinking we would come back again.